The rosemary path is a straight cobblestone walkway lined with a low clipped
hedge in the traditional French manner, but the path runs downhill rather than
on a level, and the hedge, which is tightly clipped rosemary, is planted in a
sinuous line that snakes down the slope on either side of the walkway. Gray
lavender cotton (Santolina) surrounds the rosemary parterre, making the green
curving line more dramatic against the gray. The lavender cotton is planted
straight along the walkway, providing a clean-cut, oh-so-French edge to the
path. Taller hedges on either side, also perfectly pruned, define this aromatic
garden room.
But it’s not just the unexpected forms and plant materials that make the garden at
Marqueyssac so captivating. There also are the views. The bluff stands alone in
the landscape, like a mesa formation in the Southwest United States. At the far
end from the château and primary gardens is a belvédère, or overlook, that commands a wide view across the countryside. From this
vantage you can look down on the charming village of La Roque-Gageac. Known as
one of the prettiest villages in France, its ochre-colored houses are built right up against the cliffs along the river. On the opposite bank,
vineyards follow the contours of the land, creating an undulating pattern of
rows and espaliered vines, and directly below, the Dordogne River wraps around the bluff, encircling it on
three sides. From this bird’s-eye perspective, one can see the flat-bottomed boats, known as gabarres, that ply the river for the tourists and the kayakers enjoying the water
experience.
Two miles of paths in the garden are organized in three circuits, each leading
to the belvédère. One of the three paths makes about a mile-long circle, following the rim of
the bluff. It passes a stone chapel, proceeds under holm oaks, whose
characteristically dark foliage inspired the name (Noir, or Black) given to
that section of Périgord, follows along the chalk cliffs where a climbing school is held, past a
cylindrical stone garden folly topped with a bell-shaped roof, and finally to
the belvédère. The circuit continues past a poet’s retreat, along a grand allée, and back to the château. Openings among the trees reveal the stunning views across the valley. The “high road” to the belvédère follows the spine of the bluff, and is enlivened with sculptures by d’Alain de Cerval, a descendant of the original owner.
There has been a long line of garden lovers in residence at Marqueyssac. The
first passionate gardener was Julien de Cerval, who inherited the property in
1861. He began working on the grounds in earnest, dedicating the last thirty
years of his life to creating the gardens. Inspired by Italian gardens, he
planted tens of thousands of boxwoods, giving the garden the green, verdant
look it has today.
He also introduced the cypresses and umbrella pines that are so beloved in
Italian gardens, as well as other ornamental species such as lime trees, Judas
trees, laburnums, and elm trees. He covered the ground under the trees with
Naples cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium), which blooms profusely from August
through October.
Unless cared for vigilantly, a garden will fall into disrepair very quickly. The
garden was neglected for many years until the 1990s, when it underwent a major
restoration. It was opened to the public in March 1997, and today it is the
most visited garden in Périgord.
It’s not surprising because there is something for everyone at Marqueyssac, from a
playground and labyrinth for children to entertaining walks, gardens that will
fascinate and delight, and views worth a trip around the world to see. In
addition to the view of La Roque-Gageac from the belvédère, you can see Castelnaud, Fayrac, and Beynac, three important medieval
fortresses built in the twelfth century, at the opposite end. On Thursday
nights in the summer, from dusk to midnight, 2,000 candles are placed
throughout the garden, illuminating the paths. The candlelight transforms the
gardens, adding the romance of their flickering glow. After dark, you can see
the nearby fortresses illuminated, the golden spotlights warming the stone
facades. Musicians perform in three different locations in the garden, adding
another romantic touch to the evening.
